“Raagaharp” : A Custom Swarmandal

The swarmandal is a plucked box zither of Indian origin and used as an accompanying instrument for the vocal classical music of Northern India. Modern swarmandals are similar to western zithers in shape and construction. In fact, autoharps with the chord bars removed are sometimes used as an equivalent instrument in India today.

These past few months I have been working with Purnash, a popular musician and multi-instrumentalist who performs in venues across Asia, the subcontinent, and beyond. We have combined our ideas to reinvent the swarmandal and build a hybrid that he has named “Raagaharp”. Raagaharp has a diatonic tuning schedule in the key of Eb for for his vocal range, and a combination of specially constructed lock bars for the deletion of specific notes within the immense variety of ragas he performs.

I am only familiar with western musical concepts as they apply to folk and old time music. I cannot understand or explain ragas. They are described as improvisations on a construct of modes, scales, and notes, each to affect the emotions of the listener…. and there are hundreds of them!

The strings are played open. According to the musician, for a given raga he will mute some notes and re-tune some strings. He does this on-the-fly (imagine doing this between autoharp tunes!). To change the instrument’s setup between ragas, we arrived at the idea of a combination of fine tuners and lock bars.

 

 

The lock bars of an autoharp function much like their adjoining chord bars… held aloft by springs when not in use and locked down by some sort of a wedge. The swarmandal’s lock bars will be swapped in and out as needed and seated, without springs, against the strings  by a magnetic cover.

The fixture can hold one or two bars at once and also serves as a hand rest. Inlaid in the underside of the cover are two strong magnets for attachment. The cover is easily removed and replaced for changing out the bars.

The bars are made of curly maple and felted in combinations of single and double notes. There are only seven notes in the scale but only six different notes will be muted since the keynote, Eb, will always be open. Six different bars are sufficient but I made an additional six bars with double notes.

 

 

 

Autoharp chord/lock bars reside on the ‘harp and are seldom removed unless they need attention. The swarmandal’s lock  bars will be constantly swapped in and out. To protect the fragile felt blocks I made a case to house the twelve+ bars and included extra felt for future wear.

 

 

 

I included my usual tuning strip/duster that can be temporarily inserted underneath the strings as a guide for tuning. The strings are mostly in pairs and tuned to only seven notes. The notes are labeled on the strip and lock bars according to the Indian Solfeggio system….

Eb is S    F is R   G is G   Ab is M   Bb is P   C is D   D is N

I address musical notes as sharps and naturals from A to G. The completion of this task required some careful translation. For example, a note like Eb to me is D# but on the tuning strip it appears as S.

 

 

The musician finds the sound of most swarmandals to be unpleasant and for his custom instrument he requested a warmer, less brilliant sound, particularly in the treble area. I tried to accomplish this with an African mahogany soundboard and by using Delrin rod for the bridge caps. Delrin is a hard plastic material that will render less sustain than the harder brass rod that I usually use.

 

 

 

 

 

 

At his request, I applied a matte lacquer finish over a specially formulated Benjamin Moore color called “Hale Navy”. This color seems to appear blue under some lighting and black under others. Obtaining this color in spray form was pricey but the attractive appearance is worth the excessive cost.

I admit, there is little difference between this Indian zither and the autoharps that I have been building over the years. Creating this instrument and listening to Indian music has been a wonderful exposure to Eastern musical culture enabled by an amazing musician and new friend.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sound Holes

Apertures (sound holes) in stringed musical instruments have been studied, experimented with, and designed for a variety of acoustic functions and characteristics. While a sound hole’s size, shape, and position certainly influence tone and volume, its appearance is what catches the eye and creates a kind of identity.

 

Many manufactured autoharps have simple, round sound holes while a few have no sound holes at all. Some luthier built autoharps have distinctive sound hole designs that identify their brand and are even trademarked.

I attempt to make each of my instruments unique. The sound hole treatment is one way I have of making an instrument visually distinctive while at the same time drawing attention to the fact that the instrument was custom made. I enjoy working with my customers in choosing a cut out shape, a laser cut rosette, or a custom inlay of their personal design.

The Night Shift

The Fretorfretnot workshop has been unusually busy lately. I work by myself building one or two instruments at a time, performing stringed instrument repairs for a local music store, and servicing pianos around ten local counties in two states.

During the early pandemic shut down and the following months, I restricted my piano work to the large spaces of churches at times when no one else was present. Only recently, since my three Covid vaccinations, have I resumed working in private residences. Catching up on nearly a year’s work has seriously cut into my workshop time. For that reason I have had a dream of taking on a few employees to ease my workload.

And a dream it was! As I slept, a small crew (elves?) assisted me with some of the more tedious tasks of autoharp construction. Alas, they had disappeared by morning, never to return. I would like to believe that they responded to some of the many help wanted signs posted in our area and found employment with fair compensation, benefits, and a  living wage for their important work.

 

 

 

 

A New Diatonic

I recently completed is this thirty-seven string diatonic autoharp in the single key of A. I built it for ourselves because Marsha and I are trying to sing along with our instruments more and find that the key of A is a comfortable range for our voices. Being a single key diatonic, it has paired string courses in the middle octave and only the notes needed for chords in the key of A. This produces a very rich and full tone that works nicely for strumming accompaniment and playing melody.

 

 

 

The tuning schedule begins with the lowest string, D2, and ends with the highest string, D6.

 

 

 

Fifteen chords are arranged in a “Bowers” type setup with major chords in the center row, sevenths in the top row, and minors in the bottom row. This familiar arrangement is in place on all of Marsha’s instruments and permits a sort of “motor memory” to kick in when she changes from one autoharp to another, even if in different keys. Seven of the chords are “color chords” for enhanced arrangements.

The instrument has a 1/4 inch thick solid spruce soundboard. The one piece frame is laminated maple pinblock with a laminated maple back. The side veneer, end cover, and chord bar covers are made of curly maple. Chord bars are maple with alternate bars painted black. Black tuning pins, bridges, Schreiber fine tuners, and purfling complete the black/white motif.

 

My Name Is Morgan (But It Ain’t J.P.)

I realize that the title of this post is kind of a stretch but it’s embarrassingly indicative of how my mind sometimes works. “My Name Is Morgan But It Ain’t J.P.” is an old time song that was covered by The New Lost City Ramblers. Mike Seeger, a member of the trio, famously owned and played an autoharp (not on that song) built by Tom Morgan of Morgan Springs, Tennessee. It was in admiration of Mike Seeger’s Morgan autoharp that prompted an Ohio musician to obtain the one I’m about to describe.

Long story short…. this beautiful instrument arrived in 1980 fully finished but absent the chord bars. For various reasons Mr. Morgan could not complete the chord set but instead sent along sufficient rough stock of Brazilian rosewood for their fabrication. The instrument has slumbered peacefully and unplayed for over forty years until it came to my workshop last October.

There are several features that make this a very distinctive autoharp. The woods, spruce and Brazilian rosewood, were purchased by Mr. Morgan at auction from the C.F. Martin guitar company where they had been in storage since the 1940s. The one piece spruce soundboard carries two of Morgan’s trademark “f” holes and is carved into a gentle violin- like arch. Although I couldn’t observe them because of the size and location of the sound holes, there apparently exist an internal pre-stressed truss rod and tone bars that, with a stainless steel anchor end reinforcing plate, make this a very stable instrument.

Although unplayed, the chromatic string set was forty years old and a little corroded. After much consideration it was decided to replace it with a scale designed for diatonic play in the keys of G and D. An optional F note replaces an F# in the scale to allow an F chord for play in the key of C. The chords were chosen based upon the songs that will be accompanied and extra stock was made into additional minor chords, two lock bars, and blank bars for future need.

The twelve, 5/16 inch-wide chord bars are arranged in two rows as was probably the intention of the builder. They rest upon #6 steel pins driven into Delrin bases. The Seeger autoharp bore round buttons that were sometimes broken. These chord bars were fitted with comfortable dished trapezoidal buttons made of rosewood.

 

Since the owner requested that there would be no visible screws, I devised a means of anchoring each holder and its Delrin base together with only two invisible screws. To provide easy access to adjust and change out chord bars I made top covers held by internal and inlaid magnets.

It was both an honor and a challenge completing this beautiful sounding instrument. Rosewood is a hard and oily wood that was not kind to tools and abrasives. I had some anxiety over making the most use of the limited and irreplaceable chord bar stock that was provided.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, after over forty years of initial correspondence with the instrument’s luthier Tom Morgan, weeks of consultation in my workshop, and even a global pandemic, the patient musician and his Morgan autoharp #80002 sing together.

Fret (this time)

As a luthier for 40+ years I have built hundreds of dulcimers and a great variety of other stringed instruments. In 2012, my first foray into the blogosphere was titled “Whatshebuildinginthere” in which I wrote about my instrument building with an emphasis on experimentation, information, and encouragement to help other musicians and builders. At some point autoharps took control so in 2016 I began this new blog calling it “fretorfretnot”. I expected to carry on blogging about both fretted and not fretted stringed instruments but again, autoharps ruled. Only lately have I found the time to pound frets instead of tuning pins.

This mountain dulcimer was commissioned by a musician (Marsha) that has always played in the Ionian tuning of DAA instead of the more conventional and contemporary tuning of DAD. The DAA tuning has been traditionally used for “noter and drone” playing, that is, fretting the melody on the closer “A” string/s with a stick called a noter and allowing the middle “A” string and the lower “D” string to drone. Instead, this musician fingers chords and melody on all three string courses and uses a capo or re-tunes to play in other keys and modes. To the inexplicable astonishment of many dulcimer musicians who tune and play in DAD tuning, DAA tuning can play the same music, just using different fingering patterns.

The 1-1/2 and 8-1/2 (not shown) frets are partial frets installed under only the melody string/s

A few additions have been made to favor versatility. The 6-1/2 fret has been added to the scale for Mixolydian (or DAD) tuning.  Partial frets at the 1-1/2 and 8-1/2 positions were installed under the melody course to add the extra note used in Mixolydian tunes and capoed play. Many players who tune to DAD add a full fret to the 1-1/2 position but we find it confusing and unnecessary for DAA tuning. Playing some faster melodies in DAA requires long travel up and down the fretboard and some wide finger stretches when playing chords. For that purpose a more comfortable 26-3/8″ scale length was chosen over the slightly longer scale of her other dulcimers. This small difference in scale length places the frets closer together making it easier to span chords and play faster.

The back and sides are Koa wood trimmed with grained ivoroid binding.

A western cedar soundboard, koa back and sides, wenge fretboard overlay, and mahogany fingerboard and peghead make up the body of the instrument. The four tuning machines are black chrome Gotoh planetary tuners with grained ivoroid buttons. Grained ivoroid binding trims the top and back and provides some protection from the inevitable boo-boos that attack the vulnerable edges.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sun, Earth, Moon, and stars create a basic theme with an asymetrical shape, cutouts in the peghead, and simple pearl and abalone inlays.

The sun on the soundboard was created by first shallowly routing the shape on the cedar top and then applying gold leaf. The gold leaf isn’t actually gold but brass that comes in unbelievably thin 5.5″x5.5″ sheets. Handling this material that is only a few molecules thick is tricky. It easily tears at the slightest attempt to move it. Fortunately I could overlap the fragments without visible seams. Application took some practice and involved applying a sizing (glue) and then burnishing on the thin brass. This and the rest of the instrument was finished with multiple coats of semi-gloss Deft lacquer.

 

 

 

 

 

Clip-on electronic tuners are very popular with stringed instrument musicians. They assist accurate tuning even in noisy jam sessions because they “hear” the vibrations that are conducted through the clip attachment. Many styles are available but finding a convenient and reliable place to attach them on some instruments is frustrating. For this dulcimer I removed the clip from a D’Addario tuner and replaced it with a short length of 1/8″ Delrin rod. The small star in the peghead was the perfect place to conceal an 1/8″ hole for the tuner which can be inserted and removed as needed.

 

 

 

So, you want to build an autoharp

The following is my article that was published in the 2019 summer edition of the Autoharp Quarterly magazine.

 I have always maintained my own instruments, mostly out of economic necessity but especially for the challenging DIY learning experience. This has led to a deeper understanding of what my instruments are capable of and how I might modify them to meet my personal needs. That has led to my forty plus years as a luthier, building and repairing a variety of stringed instruments.

My wife, Marsha, and I have always enjoyed autoharp music and began our own journey, as many do, by purchasing old autoharps on internet auctions. These needy ‘harps taught us tuning, restringing, and re-felting, but just as importantly, revealed design and aesthetic  improvements that could benefit our musical experience. The next step (leap) in our journey was the decision to build our own using the many ideas we had gleaned from playing, observing, and “tinkering” with these wonderful instruments.

Have you reached this point in your journey? Building a box with strings on it is not as daunting as it may seem. If you possess the motivation, a little understanding of autoharps, some basic tools, and modest woodworking skills (or know someone who does) you too can build an autoharp to be proud of. Here are some ideas and resources to help you, the first time builder, get started.

Planning

Reverse engineering, or planning backwards, begins with ‘harps you can play or observe to determine the features you like. Take photos and accurate measurements. If you have access to a failed, unsalvageable ‘harp, trace a pattern and disassemble it to discover its acoustic and structural secrets or shortcomings.

Plans can offer specific direction or become a useful “jumping off point” for your own design. Included instructions illustrate the woodworking and assembly procedures involved.

  • Plans for the Schmidt Model 73 are available for purchase from the Guild Of American Luthiers.

 

  • Musicmakers offers a free download of plans and assembly instructions for their long discontinued “Autochord” kit and continues to sell the collated hardware to complete it. The Autochord differs somewhat in size and construction from other ‘harps but offers many helpful ideas. The file can be enlarged to full size at a retail copy center.
  • The Autoharp Owner’s Manual includes excellent plans and instructions for building  “The Mountain Laurel Autoharp”, along with a wealth of maintenance and setup information. The design can support more chord bars, diatonic stringing schedules and aesthetic details. The plans can be photocopied and enlarged to full size at a retail copy center. 

Materials

  • Hardware stores stock the more common items such as screws, brass rod, glue, and finishing supplies. 
  • Specialized hardware such as zither and bridge pins can be purchased from online vendors or a piano supply company.
  • Chord bar felt, OS parts, fine tuner assemblies, pickups, pins, springs, etc., can be purchased from many autoharp luthiers and Elderly Instruments.
  • Standard and custom string sets are made by Greg Schreiber.

Wood

  • Wood can be sourced from lumber yards, sawmills, local woodworkers, and online. If you cannot plane and sand solid woods for the thinner back and soundboard, consider the 1/4” marine and cabinet grade plywood sold in big box stores such as Lowe’s. They also stock 1/4” x 6” solid poplar that can be joined to produce a better soundboard than plywood. With some patience and careful sorting, you can often find attractive quarter sawn stock.

The best framing material for tuning and overall stability is the multi-laminated maple pin block manufactured for pianos. It grips tuning pins without cracking and remains stable in changing environmental conditions. It is particularly effective when cut as a single unit for the angled treble side, as it eliminates a troublesome joint that wants to creep. I like to cut the entire frame from a single blank so that there are no joints to fail. Pin block can be obtained from a piano technician or piano supply but the planks are fifty-nine inches long, so it’s unlikely that they would sell only enough for one ‘harp. Contact me to purchase a more economical size.

In closing

When you create your own special box with strings, not only do you increase your knowledge and skills of everything autoharp, but also you get a warm fuzzy rush every time someone asks, “Who made your autoharp?”

Links

Plans

The Guild Of American Luthiers:  http://www.luth.org

Musicmakers :  https://www.harpkit.com

The Autoharp Owner’s Manual  compiled and edited by Mary Lou Orthey is available from Daigle Autoharps:  http://www.daigleharp.com

Materials

Schaff Piano Supply (wholesale)  https://www.schaffpiano.com

Vanda King (retail piano supply):  https://www.vandaking.com

Elderly Instruments:  https://www.elderly.com

Greg Schreiber:  http://schreiberautoharps.com

Michael Bowman: https://fretorfretnot.com

Child ‘Harps

Since introducing my new twenty-three string, seven chord child size autoharps two months  ago, I received a lot of interest and positive comments. My goal was to produce a serious instrument for the young learner to play while growing into a standard, full size autoharp. I guess I wasn’t too surprised when several adults found them to be a good size as a travel instrument or for someone challenged by the size and weight of a more standard autoharp. At only eighteen inches long and weighing only four and one-half pounds, they are easy to hold and carry.

Keys of D and G with seven chords, C, G, D, A, and Am, Em, and Bm.

The prototype featured a diatonic tuning schedule and chords for the keys of C and F. These two major keys are ideal for much written music and for accompanying young voices. Several musicians have asked if I could make these little ‘harps in the keys of D and G, keys more useful for older voices and for playing with mountain dulcimers and fiddles. Greg Schreiber, who makes our autoharp strings, developed a stringing schedule for this higher tuning and shorter scale so I can now offer them in the keys of D and G.

Keys of C and F with seven chords, Bb, F, C, G, and Gm, Dm and Am.

More information can be found on the original April 24th posting below and in the “Autoharp features and prices” header page.

 

The Autochord

“Musicmakers” in Stillwater, Minnesota (https://www.harpkit.com) has been a source for musical instruments, kits, and supplies since 1978. Long ago I built (from scratch) a Celtic harp and an Autochord from their published blueprints and completed a couple of mountain dulcimer kits for owners who were unable to do so themselves. I have always appreciated the quality and innovation of Musicmakers’ work.

Several years ago they produced their version of an autoharp and called it an “Autochord”. It was a unique design that differed from the more conventional Chromaharps and Oscar Schmidts. Thirty-eight ball end guitar strings spanned from bridge pins to an anchor end bridge made from a section of brass tubing. The chromatic tuning was scheduled from F2 to A5. The fifteen chord bars rested upon 1/8 Delrin rods drilled directly into the soundboard. The body of the instrument consisted of a 1/4″ redwood soundboard with a bass bar, a 3/8″ plywood back, and a laminated frame with gaps at each end of the long rail.

This interesting instrument was offered as an easy to assemble kit for someone with basic DIY skills. Like all of Musicmakers kits, it would, with attention to detail, bring satisfying results. The result however, was a rather large, heavy, and somewhat unconventional autoharp.

Although the Autochord has been discontinued for several years it still has a unique presence in the autoharp community. Musicmakers offers the plans and assembly instructions  as a free download and sells the collated non-wood components needed to make the instrument. The downloaded files can be enlarged to full sized prints at a retail copy store and used as a pattern. It is a good resource for someone wanting to design or make their first autoharp or get a few ideas.

This Autochord kit came to my workshop in the original shipping carton. It was purchased in 1995 and had only the soundboard and back glued to the frame. The current owner asked me to complete it and install fine tuners.

 

 

I made several modifications to the original design. The Daigle fine tuner system came with its own bridge so I deleted the kit’s brass tube. The wound bass strings supplied were standard guitar strings that had windings their entire length. Greg Schreiber made a custom set of wound strings that had windings only within the speaking length of the strings. I substituted threaded adjustable bridge pins so I could accurately level the strings for effective damping.

The design specified drilling the Delrin chord bar combs directly into the soundboard. Instead, I made separate Delrin bases that can be more easily adjusted for smoother chord bar movement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wanna play a little autoharp?

Our children and grandchildren constantly amaze us with their abundant curiosity and their seemingly effortless ability to learn and create wonderful music when given the opportunity and the proper tools. Most of the stringed instrument families we love such as fiddles, guitars, dulcimers, ukuleles and the like come in smaller sized models that are more appropriate for smaller learners. A few child sized autoharps have been produced over the years by the factories and even by a few autoharp luthiers but they are becoming scarce and are seldom available in playable condition.

With that in mind, I present my own iteration of a child size autoharp designed as a serious, good sounding, and well built instrument for the young learner. I believe that a quality, attractive, and stable instrument with standard string spacing, and a logical chord bar setup will make it easier to learn and to later grow into a standard autoharp. My aim is to produce a smaller scale instrument for fun as well as serious study and not a colorful toy of passing interest.

 

 

It’s no secret that I have based this instrument on the old Zimmermann and Oscar Schmidt models 2-3/4 that were produced from the 1890s to the 1950s. The size seems just right for smaller learners and the tuning schedule favors young singing voices with the keys of C and F.

 

 

I have made some dramatic improvements on the old black 2-3/4s. A one piece laminated frame with a birch ply back adds greater stability.  The solid poplar soundboard with tuned bracing lends greater resonance with better sustain. There are seven chords in two rows (instead of a single row of five) positioned for play above the chord bars with ample space to pick the higher strings. Additionally, the instrument is trimmed with an attractive side veneer, end cover, and chord set. It’s appearance and construction is much like my full sized thirty-six and thirty-seven stringed autoharps, but with only twenty-three strings it is smaller and lighter. At 18 inches long and 10-1/2 inches wide it weighs only 4-1/2 pounds.

The high quality Schreiber custom string set is specially gauged for a string schedule tuned: G-C-F-G-A-B-C-D-E-F-G-A-A#-B-C-D-E-F-G-A-A#-B-C.

The seven chord bars are in two rows. The top row is:                         Bb     F     C     G

and the bottom row is:    Gm     Dm       Am

 

 

 

At this time the only option I can offer is the choice of woods for the side veneer, chord set, bridges, and end cover. This prototype is cherry but other choices include walnut, maple, and mahogany. In the future I plan to add greater customization and alternate chord setups with more chords in two or three rows.

Here are two links with  Marsha playing two unofficial national anthems on the new child sized autoharp, one in the key of C and one in the key of F.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qa1fC5kBbjalMabgW9cDBRbLuCweyLCT

https://drive.google.com/open?id=14_b7cFDwAIaisBRjZlMu21gr7ijf-12P

Do those girls and boys spend too much screen time? Contact me for more information and a price that is sure to be less than a smart phone and requires no monthly data plan.