My Name Is Morgan (But It Ain’t J.P.)

I realize that the title of this post is kind of a stretch but it’s embarrassingly indicative of how my mind sometimes works. “My Name Is Morgan But It Ain’t J.P.” is an old time song that was covered by The New Lost City Ramblers. Mike Seeger, a member of the trio, famously owned and played an autoharp (not on that song) built by Tom Morgan of Morgan Springs, Tennessee. It was in admiration of Mike Seeger’s Morgan autoharp that prompted an Ohio musician to obtain the one I’m about to describe.

Long story short…. this beautiful instrument arrived in 1980 fully finished but absent the chord bars. For various reasons Mr. Morgan could not complete the chord set but instead sent along sufficient rough stock of Brazilian rosewood for their fabrication. The instrument has slumbered peacefully and unplayed for over forty years until it came to my workshop last October.

There are several features that make this a very distinctive autoharp. The woods, spruce and Brazilian rosewood, were purchased by Mr. Morgan at auction from the C.F. Martin guitar company where they had been in storage since the 1940s. The one piece spruce soundboard carries two of Morgan’s trademark “f” holes and is carved into a gentle violin- like arch. Although I couldn’t observe them because of the size and location of the sound holes, there apparently exist an internal pre-stressed truss rod and tone bars that, with a stainless steel anchor end reinforcing plate, make this a very stable instrument.

Although unplayed, the chromatic string set was forty years old and a little corroded. After much consideration it was decided to replace it with a scale designed for diatonic play in the keys of G and D. An optional F note replaces an F# in the scale to allow an F chord for play in the key of C. The chords were chosen based upon the songs that will be accompanied and extra stock was made into additional minor chords, two lock bars, and blank bars for future need.

The twelve, 5/16 inch-wide chord bars are arranged in two rows as was probably the intention of the builder. They rest upon #6 steel pins driven into Delrin bases. The Seeger autoharp bore round buttons that were sometimes broken. These chord bars were fitted with comfortable dished trapezoidal buttons made of rosewood.

 

Since the owner requested that there would be no visible screws, I devised a means of anchoring each holder and its Delrin base together with only two invisible screws. To provide easy access to adjust and change out chord bars I made top covers held by internal and inlaid magnets.

It was both an honor and a challenge completing this beautiful sounding instrument. Rosewood is a hard and oily wood that was not kind to tools and abrasives. I had some anxiety over making the most use of the limited and irreplaceable chord bar stock that was provided.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, after over forty years of initial correspondence with the instrument’s luthier Tom Morgan, weeks of consultation in my workshop, and even a global pandemic, the patient musician and his Morgan autoharp #80002 sing together.

Fret (this time)

As a luthier for 40+ years I have built hundreds of dulcimers and a great variety of other stringed instruments. In 2012, my first foray into the blogosphere was titled “Whatshebuildinginthere” in which I wrote about my instrument building with an emphasis on experimentation, information, and encouragement to help other musicians and builders. At some point autoharps took control so in 2016 I began this new blog calling it “fretorfretnot”. I expected to carry on blogging about both fretted and not fretted stringed instruments but again, autoharps ruled. Only lately have I found the time to pound frets instead of tuning pins.

This mountain dulcimer was commissioned by a musician (Marsha) that has always played in the Ionian tuning of DAA instead of the more conventional and contemporary tuning of DAD. The DAA tuning has been traditionally used for “noter and drone” playing, that is, fretting the melody on the closer “A” string/s with a stick called a noter and allowing the middle “A” string and the lower “D” string to drone. Instead, this musician fingers chords and melody on all three string courses and uses a capo or re-tunes to play in other keys and modes. To the inexplicable astonishment of many dulcimer musicians who tune and play in DAD tuning, DAA tuning can play the same music, just using different fingering patterns.

The 1-1/2 and 8-1/2 (not shown) frets are partial frets installed under only the melody string/s

A few additions have been made to favor versatility. The 6-1/2 fret has been added to the scale for Mixolydian (or DAD) tuning.  Partial frets at the 1-1/2 and 8-1/2 positions were installed under the melody course to add the extra note used in Mixolydian tunes and capoed play. Many players who tune to DAD add a full fret to the 1-1/2 position but we find it confusing and unnecessary for DAA tuning. Playing some faster melodies in DAA requires long travel up and down the fretboard and some wide finger stretches when playing chords. For that purpose a more comfortable 26-3/8″ scale length was chosen over the slightly longer scale of her other dulcimers. This small difference in scale length places the frets closer together making it easier to span chords and play faster.

The back and sides are Koa wood trimmed with grained ivoroid binding.

A western cedar soundboard, koa back and sides, wenge fretboard overlay, and mahogany fingerboard and peghead make up the body of the instrument. The four tuning machines are black chrome Gotoh planetary tuners with grained ivoroid buttons. Grained ivoroid binding trims the top and back and provides some protection from the inevitable boo-boos that attack the vulnerable edges.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sun, Earth, Moon, and stars create a basic theme with an asymetrical shape, cutouts in the peghead, and simple pearl and abalone inlays.

The sun on the soundboard was created by first shallowly routing the shape on the cedar top and then applying gold leaf. The gold leaf isn’t actually gold but brass that comes in unbelievably thin 5.5″x5.5″ sheets. Handling this material that is only a few molecules thick is tricky. It easily tears at the slightest attempt to move it. Fortunately I could overlap the fragments without visible seams. Application took some practice and involved applying a sizing (glue) and then burnishing on the thin brass. This and the rest of the instrument was finished with multiple coats of semi-gloss Deft lacquer.

 

 

 

 

 

Clip-on electronic tuners are very popular with stringed instrument musicians. They assist accurate tuning even in noisy jam sessions because they “hear” the vibrations that are conducted through the clip attachment. Many styles are available but finding a convenient and reliable place to attach them on some instruments is frustrating. For this dulcimer I removed the clip from a D’Addario tuner and replaced it with a short length of 1/8″ Delrin rod. The small star in the peghead was the perfect place to conceal an 1/8″ hole for the tuner which can be inserted and removed as needed.

 

 

 

So, you want to build an autoharp

The following is my article that was published in the 2019 summer edition of the Autoharp Quarterly magazine.

 I have always maintained my own instruments, mostly out of economic necessity but especially for the challenging DIY learning experience. This has led to a deeper understanding of what my instruments are capable of and how I might modify them to meet my personal needs. That has led to my forty plus years as a luthier, building and repairing a variety of stringed instruments.

My wife, Marsha, and I have always enjoyed autoharp music and began our own journey, as many do, by purchasing old autoharps on internet auctions. These needy ‘harps taught us tuning, restringing, and re-felting, but just as importantly, revealed design and aesthetic  improvements that could benefit our musical experience. The next step (leap) in our journey was the decision to build our own using the many ideas we had gleaned from playing, observing, and “tinkering” with these wonderful instruments.

Have you reached this point in your journey? Building a box with strings on it is not as daunting as it may seem. If you possess the motivation, a little understanding of autoharps, some basic tools, and modest woodworking skills (or know someone who does) you too can build an autoharp to be proud of. Here are some ideas and resources to help you, the first time builder, get started.

Planning

Reverse engineering, or planning backwards, begins with ‘harps you can play or observe to determine the features you like. Take photos and accurate measurements. If you have access to a failed, unsalvageable ‘harp, trace a pattern and disassemble it to discover its acoustic and structural secrets or shortcomings.

Plans can offer specific direction or become a useful “jumping off point” for your own design. Included instructions illustrate the woodworking and assembly procedures involved.

  • Plans for the Schmidt Model 73 are available for purchase from the Guild Of American Luthiers.

 

  • Musicmakers offers a free download of plans and assembly instructions for their long discontinued “Autochord” kit and continues to sell the collated hardware to complete it. The Autochord differs somewhat in size and construction from other ‘harps but offers many helpful ideas. The file can be enlarged to full size at a retail copy center.
  • The Autoharp Owner’s Manual includes excellent plans and instructions for building  “The Mountain Laurel Autoharp”, along with a wealth of maintenance and setup information. The design can support more chord bars, diatonic stringing schedules and aesthetic details. The plans can be photocopied and enlarged to full size at a retail copy center. 

Materials

  • Hardware stores stock the more common items such as screws, brass rod, glue, and finishing supplies. 
  • Specialized hardware such as zither and bridge pins can be purchased from online vendors or a piano supply company.
  • Chord bar felt, OS parts, fine tuner assemblies, pickups, pins, springs, etc., can be purchased from many autoharp luthiers and Elderly Instruments.
  • Standard and custom string sets are made by Greg Schreiber.

Wood

  • Wood can be sourced from lumber yards, sawmills, local woodworkers, and online. If you cannot plane and sand solid woods for the thinner back and soundboard, consider the 1/4” marine and cabinet grade plywood sold in big box stores such as Lowe’s. They also stock 1/4” x 6” solid poplar that can be joined to produce a better soundboard than plywood. With some patience and careful sorting, you can often find attractive quarter sawn stock.

The best framing material for tuning and overall stability is the multi-laminated maple pin block manufactured for pianos. It grips tuning pins without cracking and remains stable in changing environmental conditions. It is particularly effective when cut as a single unit for the angled treble side, as it eliminates a troublesome joint that wants to creep. I like to cut the entire frame from a single blank so that there are no joints to fail. Pin block can be obtained from a piano technician or piano supply but the planks are fifty-nine inches long, so it’s unlikely that they would sell only enough for one ‘harp. Contact me to purchase a more economical size.

In closing

When you create your own special box with strings, not only do you increase your knowledge and skills of everything autoharp, but also you get a warm fuzzy rush every time someone asks, “Who made your autoharp?”

Links

Plans

The Guild Of American Luthiers:  http://www.luth.org

Musicmakers :  https://www.harpkit.com

The Autoharp Owner’s Manual  compiled and edited by Mary Lou Orthey is available from Daigle Autoharps:  http://www.daigleharp.com

Materials

Schaff Piano Supply (wholesale)  https://www.schaffpiano.com

Vanda King (retail piano supply):  https://www.vandaking.com

Elderly Instruments:  https://www.elderly.com

Greg Schreiber:  http://schreiberautoharps.com

Michael Bowman: https://fretorfretnot.com

Child ‘Harps

Since introducing my new twenty-three string, seven chord child size autoharps two months  ago, I received a lot of interest and positive comments. My goal was to produce a serious instrument for the young learner to play while growing into a standard, full size autoharp. I guess I wasn’t too surprised when several adults found them to be a good size as a travel instrument or for someone challenged by the size and weight of a more standard autoharp. At only eighteen inches long and weighing only four and one-half pounds, they are easy to hold and carry.

Keys of D and G with seven chords, C, G, D, A, and Am, Em, and Bm.

The prototype featured a diatonic tuning schedule and chords for the keys of C and F. These two major keys are ideal for much written music and for accompanying young voices. Several musicians have asked if I could make these little ‘harps in the keys of D and G, keys more useful for older voices and for playing with mountain dulcimers and fiddles. Greg Schreiber, who makes our autoharp strings, developed a stringing schedule for this higher tuning and shorter scale so I can now offer them in the keys of D and G.

Keys of C and F with seven chords, Bb, F, C, G, and Gm, Dm and Am.

More information can be found on the original April 24th posting below and in the “Autoharp features and prices” header page.

 

The Autochord

“Musicmakers” in Stillwater, Minnesota (https://www.harpkit.com) has been a source for musical instruments, kits, and supplies since 1978. Long ago I built (from scratch) a Celtic harp and an Autochord from their published blueprints and completed a couple of mountain dulcimer kits for owners who were unable to do so themselves. I have always appreciated the quality and innovation of Musicmakers’ work.

Several years ago they produced their version of an autoharp and called it an “Autochord”. It was a unique design that differed from the more conventional Chromaharps and Oscar Schmidts. Thirty-eight ball end guitar strings spanned from bridge pins to an anchor end bridge made from a section of brass tubing. The chromatic tuning was scheduled from F2 to A5. The fifteen chord bars rested upon 1/8 Delrin rods drilled directly into the soundboard. The body of the instrument consisted of a 1/4″ redwood soundboard with a bass bar, a 3/8″ plywood back, and a laminated frame with gaps at each end of the long rail.

This interesting instrument was offered as an easy to assemble kit for someone with basic DIY skills. Like all of Musicmakers kits, it would, with attention to detail, bring satisfying results. The result however, was a rather large, heavy, and somewhat unconventional autoharp.

Although the Autochord has been discontinued for several years it still has a unique presence in the autoharp community. Musicmakers offers the plans and assembly instructions  as a free download and sells the collated non-wood components needed to make the instrument. The downloaded files can be enlarged to full sized prints at a retail copy store and used as a pattern. It is a good resource for someone wanting to design or make their first autoharp or get a few ideas.

This Autochord kit came to my workshop in the original shipping carton. It was purchased in 1995 and had only the soundboard and back glued to the frame. The current owner asked me to complete it and install fine tuners.

 

 

I made several modifications to the original design. The Daigle fine tuner system came with its own bridge so I deleted the kit’s brass tube. The wound bass strings supplied were standard guitar strings that had windings their entire length. Greg Schreiber made a custom set of wound strings that had windings only within the speaking length of the strings. I substituted threaded adjustable bridge pins so I could accurately level the strings for effective damping.

The design specified drilling the Delrin chord bar combs directly into the soundboard. Instead, I made separate Delrin bases that can be more easily adjusted for smoother chord bar movement.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wanna play a little autoharp?

Our children and grandchildren constantly amaze us with their abundant curiosity and their seemingly effortless ability to learn and create wonderful music when given the opportunity and the proper tools. Most of the stringed instrument families we love such as fiddles, guitars, dulcimers, ukuleles and the like come in smaller sized models that are more appropriate for smaller learners. A few child sized autoharps have been produced over the years by the factories and even by a few autoharp luthiers but they are becoming scarce and are seldom available in playable condition.

With that in mind, I present my own iteration of a child size autoharp designed as a serious, good sounding, and well built instrument for the young learner. I believe that a quality, attractive, and stable instrument with standard string spacing, and a logical chord bar setup will make it easier to learn and to later grow into a standard autoharp. My aim is to produce a smaller scale instrument for fun as well as serious study and not a colorful toy of passing interest.

 

 

It’s no secret that I have based this instrument on the old Zimmermann and Oscar Schmidt models 2-3/4 that were produced from the 1890s to the 1950s. The size seems just right for smaller learners and the tuning schedule favors young singing voices with the keys of C and F.

 

 

I have made some dramatic improvements on the old black 2-3/4s. A one piece laminated frame with a birch ply back adds greater stability.  The solid poplar soundboard with tuned bracing lends greater resonance with better sustain. There are seven chords in two rows (instead of a single row of five) positioned for play above the chord bars with ample space to pick the higher strings. Additionally, the instrument is trimmed with an attractive side veneer, end cover, and chord set. It’s appearance and construction is much like my full sized thirty-six and thirty-seven stringed autoharps, but with only twenty-three strings it is smaller and lighter. At 18 inches long and 10-1/2 inches wide it weighs only 4-1/2 pounds.

The high quality Schreiber custom string set is specially gauged for a string schedule tuned: G-C-F-G-A-B-C-D-E-F-G-A-A#-B-C-D-E-F-G-A-A#-B-C.

The seven chord bars are in two rows. The top row is:                         Bb     F     C     G

and the bottom row is:    Gm     Dm       Am

 

 

 

At this time the only option I can offer is the choice of woods for the side veneer, chord set, bridges, and end cover. This prototype is cherry but other choices include walnut, maple, and mahogany. In the future I plan to add greater customization and alternate chord setups with more chords in two or three rows.

Here are two links with  Marsha playing two unofficial national anthems on the new child sized autoharp, one in the key of C and one in the key of F.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qa1fC5kBbjalMabgW9cDBRbLuCweyLCT

https://drive.google.com/open?id=14_b7cFDwAIaisBRjZlMu21gr7ijf-12P

Do those girls and boys spend too much screen time? Contact me for more information and a price that is sure to be less than a smart phone and requires no monthly data plan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Hippy Harp (revisited)

Father Christmas has delighted a good little girl in Victoria, Australia with the  delivery of a colourful and unique chromatic autoharp. The Hippy Harp joins Angie’s incredible stable of zithers that she collects and restores, teaches and performs with. Her wonderful and aptly named website, “Running With Zithers” can be found here:

http://runningwithzithers.blogspot.com

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Peace and joy to everyone on this groovy holiday season!

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The Dove (revisited)

The 28th annual Mountain Laurel Autoharp Gathering is now taking place in Newport, Pennsylvania. Last night they held their autoharp championship contest with nineteen amazing musicians competing for autoharp glory.

The contest, always intense but lively, was a special treat for us this year with the appearance of Rene St.Aubin playing his autoharp he named “The Dove”. He said he entered the contest for the experience and played his two excellent arrangements with great skill, precision, and confidence. We look forward to his entry in next year’s contest.

 

The Dove

Here is a new custom autoharp commissioned by a musician and performer from Ontario. He desired a bright white “dove of peace” shaped sound hole on an all black body. The dove shape that he chose was too delicate to cut into the soundboard so I inlayed it in a walnut veneer ring with a bright white plastic material.

The opaque black body finish was  a learning experience for me as I have always finished my instruments to show the natural woodgrain. Wood finishing requires a lot of between-the-coats sanding and with an opaque finish it’s possible to sand right through to the bare wood. To avoid this potential problem I dyed the wood black, applied multiple coats of black grain filler and lacquer, and followed with several coats of satin lacquer. A satin finish was preferred over a gloss finish in the hope that the unavoidable fingerprints and chord felt dust would not be as visible.

Walnut was the choice for the bridges, chord bars, chord bar buttons, bar comb covers, and tailpiece. Along with the brass hardware it makes for a subtle contrast to the solid black body.

 

 

Black delrin locks on the ends of the lockbars. The bar is pressed and the locks slide to wedge under the covers.

The instrument is set up as a thirty-seven string diatonic in the keys of G and D. The fifteen chord bars are arranged in three rows with the major chords in the middle, the sevenths on the top, and the minors in the bottom row. The two chord bars nearest the tail end are lock bars. One is a D lockbar that mutes the strings in the array that aren’t in the key of D (four C strings and one F). The G lockbar mutes the strings in the array not in the key of G ( two C# strings and one F). By muting the unnecessary notes the player is less likely to play them by mistake.

Chord array before cutting the felt and installing the locks.

One might wonder why there is an F note on a G/D autoharp. By changing one string in an F# pair to F and cutting an F chord bar, this autoharp can also play the IV chord needed in the key of C.

 

 

 

 

The thirty-seven strings are anchored at the tail end with a set of Daigle Flatline fine tuners. Each string can be fine tuned by turning its allen screw with a small wrench. This is especially useful with a diatonic autoharp that has several string pairs that need to be tuned in unison and beatless. Fine tuners are also helpful for tweaking the strings that go a little sharp or flat from day to day environmental changes in temperature and humidity.

A wood handled allen wrench was supplied with the tuning assembly but I made an additional, smaller one that seats magnetically in a hole at the end of the tailpiece. It’s handy, right there near the tuners and not lost amid all of the other paraphernalia that travels with the instrument.

The new owner  performs at a variety of venues, open mics, and with a regular bluegrass jam. He uses a sound system when he performs and plays his instruments unamplified with the bluegrass. The Dove can be amplified via a Schreiber electromagnetic pickup that is invisibly installed on the soundboard underneath the chord bars. It is wired to a 1/4″ jack that is imbedded flush on curved treble bout. 

 

A new left handed autoharp (SOLD)



DSC06125I have recently completed a new left handed autoharp that I began last Fall.  It was not a commission but built for general sale. It is a basic “A” style but differs from my previous builds as it features eighteen thinner chord bars carried on aluminium and steel combs instead of the traditional slotted chord bar holders. This makes for more chords,  improved action, and less noise. I hope to include this feature on most of my future builds.DSC06127

DSC06132As a left handed autoharp, it is ideal for the left handed player wanting to play in an upright position or for playing on the lap by a right handed player ( read about left handed autoharps in the page on this site’s header).

DSC06128 Features

  • Standard 36 string chromatic with Fladmark strings
  • 18 uncut chord bars in three rows with premium felt. Chords will be cut, arranged, and labeled to the buyer’s specifications
  • One piece laminated maple sides, back, and frame with no joints (for stability)
  • Mahogany trim, bridges, chord bars, chord bar holders, and tail cover
  • Solid spruce soundboard
  • Great tone with a low, quiet, chord bar action
  • 22.5 inches long x 12 inches wide x 3 inches high (with rubber feet)
  • Weight is 6 pounds 11 ounces
  • Includes a quality T-handle star tip tuning wrench
  • Price is $850.00 plus shippingDSC06129

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Contact me for additional information or to arrange purchase. Contact information can be found in the header.

This instrument has sold. Check the “Instruments for sale” page in the header for       future offers.