The Night Shift

The Fretorfretnot workshop has been unusually busy lately. I work by myself building one or two instruments at a time, performing stringed instrument repairs for a local music store, and servicing pianos around ten local counties in two states.

During the early pandemic shut down and the following months, I restricted my piano work to the large spaces of churches at times when no one else was present. Only recently, since my three Covid vaccinations, have I resumed working in private residences. Catching up on nearly a year’s work has seriously cut into my workshop time. For that reason I have had a dream of taking on a few employees to ease my workload.

And a dream it was! As I slept, a small crew (elves?) assisted me with some of the more tedious tasks of autoharp construction. Alas, they had disappeared by morning, never to return. I would like to believe that they responded to some of the many help wanted signs posted in our area and found employment with fair compensation, benefits, and a  living wage for their important work.

 

 

 

 

A New Diatonic

I recently completed is this thirty-seven string diatonic autoharp in the single key of A. I built it for ourselves because Marsha and I are trying to sing along with our instruments more and find that the key of A is a comfortable range for our voices. Being a single key diatonic, it has paired string courses in the middle octave and only the notes needed for chords in the key of A. This produces a very rich and full tone that works nicely for strumming accompaniment and playing melody.

 

 

 

The tuning schedule begins with the lowest string, D2, and ends with the highest string, D6.

 

 

 

Fifteen chords are arranged in a “Bowers” type setup with major chords in the center row, sevenths in the top row, and minors in the bottom row. This familiar arrangement is in place on all of Marsha’s instruments and permits a sort of “motor memory” to kick in when she changes from one autoharp to another, even if in different keys. Seven of the chords are “color chords” for enhanced arrangements.

The instrument has a 1/4 inch thick solid spruce soundboard. The one piece frame is laminated maple pinblock with a laminated maple back. The side veneer, end cover, and chord bar covers are made of curly maple. Chord bars are maple with alternate bars painted black. Black tuning pins, bridges, Schreiber fine tuners, and purfling complete the black/white motif.

 

A New Custom Chromatic

My most recent instrument is this custom chromatic autoharp commissioned by a musician here in Ohio.

This twenty-one chord, thirty-seven string chromatic differs from my other autoharps in several ways. My original frame design was ideal for diatonic tunings that required fewer chord bars but not optimal for twenty-one bar chord sets. This newer design with its angled and curved bridges favors the extra chord bars with more playing space in the treble area as well as fewer harmonics.

For strength and stability the frame is cut as a single piece of laminated pin block with no joints (my usual method). This frame has areas routed away inside to increase the internal volume of the box. That, with tuned X-bracing renders improved tone and volume.

The twenty-one maple chord bars are capped with walnut buttons and are mounted upon combs made of #6 bridge pins and Delrin bases. Just to be different, I kinda hybridized the chord bar covers by making a shell out of walnut and very thin birch plywood. Its top surface is veneered with sequence-matched walnut burl. There is no distinct advantage for making it this way but the larger areas of felt damping on the underside seem to make the chord bars quieter.

The side trim and bridges are walnut.

A larger laser cut rosette surrounds a smaller sound hole.

The soundboard is western red cedar. 

A custom thirty-seven string Schreiber string set is anchored by Daigle fine tuners.

New Child ‘Harps (for sale)

I have recently completed three of my 3/4-size autoharps that are for sale and will soon be ready for delivery.

About two years ago I began building these  smaller sized autoharps aimed at younger learners beginning their autoharp journey. I saw a need for a serious alternative to the painted “toys” produced by manufacturers in the past. With twenty-three strings and seven chords, my Child ‘Harps are lighter and easier to tune and play than their larger siblings. 

They measure eighteen inches long, ten inches wide, and weigh under five pounds. Due to their smaller size and handmade quality, Child ‘Harps have also become attractive to adults who find them less stressful and fatiguing than playing larger, heavier autoharps. Having standard string and chord button spacing, they are ideal for the adult player adapting to a smaller instrument or the young learner who will eventually grow into a big autoharp. 

The design and construction is fundamentally the same as my full sized instruments. For structural integrity and tuning stability I build with one- piece laminated frames, and solid wood soundboards and components. They have a rich full voice for their size and are built to last.

 

 

Chords in the keys of G and D.

Child ‘Harps come in two different two-key diatonic setups, each with seven chords. Being diatonic means that the string array doesn’t include all the notes in the chromatic scale but only the notes needed in the two keys. The G/D ‘harp plays in the keys of G and D and has four major chords (C, G, D, and A) and three minor chords (Em, Bm, and F#m). The F/C ‘harp plays in the keys of F and C and has four major chords (Bb, F, C, and G) and three minor chords (Dm, Am, and Em). The scale is similar to the mid and treble range found in standard autoharp tuning with the lowest note in the 3rd octave and the highest in the 6th octave. Unlike standard diatonic autoharps, these do not have doubled string courses.

Chords in the keys of F and C.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SOLD SOLD SOLD Child ‘Harp with walnut trim and solid poplar soundboard. Complete and ready for stringing and setup in buyer’s choice of either keys of F/C or G/D.

 

I try to make each of my instruments unique in some way so these three new ones are built using different wood combinations and tuning setups. Each is for sale and include a quilted “cozy” and a star tipped T-wrench for tuning.

Twenty-three string, seven chord diatonic plays in the keys of F and C. African mahogany trim with an aspen soundboard.

 

Twenty-three string, seven chord diatonic plays in the keys of G and D. Walnut trim with poplar soundboard

Hear the new Child ‘Harps

Marsha’s fingers play two childhood finger plays on a Child ‘Harp.

Marsha plays “Polly Wolly Doodle” in the key of G.

Marsha plays “Believe Me If All Those Endearing Young Charms” in the key of G on a Child ‘Harp.

 

Marsha plays “Soldier’s Joy” in the key of D on a new Child ‘Harp.

 

Marsha plays “On Top of Spaghetti (Smokey)” in the key of C on a new Child ‘Harp.

 

My Name Is Morgan (But It Ain’t J.P.)

I realize that the title of this post is kind of a stretch but it’s embarrassingly indicative of how my mind sometimes works. “My Name Is Morgan But It Ain’t J.P.” is an old time song that was covered by The New Lost City Ramblers. Mike Seeger, a member of the trio, famously owned and played an autoharp (not on that song) built by Tom Morgan of Morgan Springs, Tennessee. It was in admiration of Mike Seeger’s Morgan autoharp that prompted an Ohio musician to obtain the one I’m about to describe.

Long story short…. this beautiful instrument arrived in 1980 fully finished but absent the chord bars. For various reasons Mr. Morgan could not complete the chord set but instead sent along sufficient rough stock of Brazilian rosewood for their fabrication. The instrument has slumbered peacefully and unplayed for over forty years until it came to my workshop last October.

There are several features that make this a very distinctive autoharp. The woods, spruce and Brazilian rosewood, were purchased by Mr. Morgan at auction from the C.F. Martin guitar company where they had been in storage since the 1940s. The one piece spruce soundboard carries two of Morgan’s trademark “f” holes and is carved into a gentle violin- like arch. Although I couldn’t observe them because of the size and location of the sound holes, there apparently exist an internal pre-stressed truss rod and tone bars that, with a stainless steel anchor end reinforcing plate, make this a very stable instrument.

Although unplayed, the chromatic string set was forty years old and a little corroded. After much consideration it was decided to replace it with a scale designed for diatonic play in the keys of G and D. An optional F note replaces an F# in the scale to allow an F chord for play in the key of C. The chords were chosen based upon the songs that will be accompanied and extra stock was made into additional minor chords, two lock bars, and blank bars for future need.

The twelve, 5/16 inch-wide chord bars are arranged in two rows as was probably the intention of the builder. They rest upon #6 steel pins driven into Delrin bases. The Seeger autoharp bore round buttons that were sometimes broken. These chord bars were fitted with comfortable dished trapezoidal buttons made of rosewood.

 

Since the owner requested that there would be no visible screws, I devised a means of anchoring each holder and its Delrin base together with only two invisible screws. To provide easy access to adjust and change out chord bars I made top covers held by internal and inlaid magnets.

It was both an honor and a challenge completing this beautiful sounding instrument. Rosewood is a hard and oily wood that was not kind to tools and abrasives. I had some anxiety over making the most use of the limited and irreplaceable chord bar stock that was provided.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, after over forty years of initial correspondence with the instrument’s luthier Tom Morgan, weeks of consultation in my workshop, and even a global pandemic, the patient musician and his Morgan autoharp #80002 sing together.

More Frets, An Octave Mandolin

My most recent non-autoharp build is this eight string octave mandolin that I made for myself. The octave mandolin is commonly tuned to GDAE, one octave lower than its smaller cousins. With a longer 22-3/4 inch scale and eight strings, it lends a wonderful mellow voice to the Celtic music I love to play.

Being quite different from autoharps, banjos, and dulcimers, this instrument was a real “skill builder” for me. It’s actually the second one I have built. The first one was a successful practice build with simpler features and a few small mistakes that I wanted to improve upon with this one. I relied heavily upon the very detailed plans and instructions sold by West Virginian luthier Don Kawalek. Mr. Kawalek sells finished instruments, octave mandolin kits, and conducts workshops that have helped hundreds of folks build their own mandolins. His scale drawings, bracing patterns, and jig plans were a useful resource for planning my own scratch built mandolins.

 

The teardrop shaped body is made of book matched ribbon mahogany. The five piece neck  of African mahogany, ebony, and birdseye maple is reinforced with a two-way adjustable truss rod. The fingerboard, peghead overlay, and heel cap are made of ebony and inlaid with mother of pearl. White/black/white purfling, black fiber binding, a herringbone back strip, and a laser cut rosette trim the body.

 

 

 

 

 

Fret (this time)

As a luthier for 40+ years I have built hundreds of dulcimers and a great variety of other stringed instruments. In 2012, my first foray into the blogosphere was titled “Whatshebuildinginthere” in which I wrote about my instrument building with an emphasis on experimentation, information, and encouragement to help other musicians and builders. At some point autoharps took control so in 2016 I began this new blog calling it “fretorfretnot”. I expected to carry on blogging about both fretted and not fretted stringed instruments but again, autoharps ruled. Only lately have I found the time to pound frets instead of tuning pins.

This mountain dulcimer was commissioned by a musician (Marsha) that has always played in the Ionian tuning of DAA instead of the more conventional and contemporary tuning of DAD. The DAA tuning has been traditionally used for “noter and drone” playing, that is, fretting the melody on the closer “A” string/s with a stick called a noter and allowing the middle “A” string and the lower “D” string to drone. Instead, this musician fingers chords and melody on all three string courses and uses a capo or re-tunes to play in other keys and modes. To the inexplicable astonishment of many dulcimer musicians who tune and play in DAD tuning, DAA tuning can play the same music, just using different fingering patterns.

The 1-1/2 and 8-1/2 (not shown) frets are partial frets installed under only the melody string/s

A few additions have been made to favor versatility. The 6-1/2 fret has been added to the scale for Mixolydian (or DAD) tuning.  Partial frets at the 1-1/2 and 8-1/2 positions were installed under the melody course to add the extra note used in Mixolydian tunes and capoed play. Many players who tune to DAD add a full fret to the 1-1/2 position but we find it confusing and unnecessary for DAA tuning. Playing some faster melodies in DAA requires long travel up and down the fretboard and some wide finger stretches when playing chords. For that purpose a more comfortable 26-3/8″ scale length was chosen over the slightly longer scale of her other dulcimers. This small difference in scale length places the frets closer together making it easier to span chords and play faster.

The back and sides are Koa wood trimmed with grained ivoroid binding.

A western cedar soundboard, koa back and sides, wenge fretboard overlay, and mahogany fingerboard and peghead make up the body of the instrument. The four tuning machines are black chrome Gotoh planetary tuners with grained ivoroid buttons. Grained ivoroid binding trims the top and back and provides some protection from the inevitable boo-boos that attack the vulnerable edges.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sun, Earth, Moon, and stars create a basic theme with an asymetrical shape, cutouts in the peghead, and simple pearl and abalone inlays.

The sun on the soundboard was created by first shallowly routing the shape on the cedar top and then applying gold leaf. The gold leaf isn’t actually gold but brass that comes in unbelievably thin 5.5″x5.5″ sheets. Handling this material that is only a few molecules thick is tricky. It easily tears at the slightest attempt to move it. Fortunately I could overlap the fragments without visible seams. Application took some practice and involved applying a sizing (glue) and then burnishing on the thin brass. This and the rest of the instrument was finished with multiple coats of semi-gloss Deft lacquer.

 

 

 

 

 

Clip-on electronic tuners are very popular with stringed instrument musicians. They assist accurate tuning even in noisy jam sessions because they “hear” the vibrations that are conducted through the clip attachment. Many styles are available but finding a convenient and reliable place to attach them on some instruments is frustrating. For this dulcimer I removed the clip from a D’Addario tuner and replaced it with a short length of 1/8″ Delrin rod. The small star in the peghead was the perfect place to conceal an 1/8″ hole for the tuner which can be inserted and removed as needed.

 

 

 

A New F/C Diatonic Autoharp

I recently completed and delivered this commissioned instrument to a musician in New York state. After the initial contact and much discussion by e-mail, the entire process required only three months. The wait probably seemed longer to the musician anxious to receive his first luthier built autoharp but its completion was well within my usual two to five month time estimate.

 

 

 

 

He has been playing autoharp for over forty years and writes worship songs that he plays for small gatherings. By commissioning a custom autoharp he could choose features that greatly enhance his music and playing style. The songs he writes and performs are mostly in the keys of C and F so an enhanced diatonic string schedule and a fifteen bar chord setup with two lockbars was designed for the chords he needs. He plays acoustically in private and amplified in public so an electromagnetic pickup and jack were installed. Other chosen options were fine tuners which are very useful with a diatonic, and cosmetic features such as a custom oval sound hole rosette.

 

The chord bars, bridges, side veneer, chord bar covers, and tail cover are made of African mahogany stained with Minwax red mahogany oil stain. The chord bar covers, chord buttons, and tail cover are capped with curly maple finished natural. The soundboard is spruce, the back is maple veneer, and everything is finished with up to six coats of semi-gloss Deft lacquer.

 

The Schreiber electromagnetic pickup is specially wound for this thirty-seven string array and is fastened underneath the chord bars by metal tabs that fit in slots on the underside of the Delrin chord bar combs. A small length of coax is routed through the inside of the instrument to a 1/4″ jack.

 

 

Many of my autoharps are shipped out of state and abroad to musicians who will likely want to experiment with alternative chords or attend to future DIY adjustments and repairs. For this I include some extra blank felted chord bars, extra chord felt, self adhesive under cover felt, and extra springs. The wrapper from the custom string set will help them order the proper strings when it becomes necessary and a laminated strip indicates the tuning of each string. Also included is the allen wrench that comes with the fine tuners and a new star tipped T-wrench.

 

 

 

 

So, you want to build an autoharp

The following is my article that was published in the 2019 summer edition of the Autoharp Quarterly magazine.

 I have always maintained my own instruments, mostly out of economic necessity but especially for the challenging DIY learning experience. This has led to a deeper understanding of what my instruments are capable of and how I might modify them to meet my personal needs. That has led to my forty plus years as a luthier, building and repairing a variety of stringed instruments.

My wife, Marsha, and I have always enjoyed autoharp music and began our own journey, as many do, by purchasing old autoharps on internet auctions. These needy ‘harps taught us tuning, restringing, and re-felting, but just as importantly, revealed design and aesthetic  improvements that could benefit our musical experience. The next step (leap) in our journey was the decision to build our own using the many ideas we had gleaned from playing, observing, and “tinkering” with these wonderful instruments.

Have you reached this point in your journey? Building a box with strings on it is not as daunting as it may seem. If you possess the motivation, a little understanding of autoharps, some basic tools, and modest woodworking skills (or know someone who does) you too can build an autoharp to be proud of. Here are some ideas and resources to help you, the first time builder, get started.

Planning

Reverse engineering, or planning backwards, begins with ‘harps you can play or observe to determine the features you like. Take photos and accurate measurements. If you have access to a failed, unsalvageable ‘harp, trace a pattern and disassemble it to discover its acoustic and structural secrets or shortcomings.

Plans can offer specific direction or become a useful “jumping off point” for your own design. Included instructions illustrate the woodworking and assembly procedures involved.

  • Plans for the Schmidt Model 73 are available for purchase from the Guild Of American Luthiers.

 

  • Musicmakers offers a free download of plans and assembly instructions for their long discontinued “Autochord” kit and continues to sell the collated hardware to complete it. The Autochord differs somewhat in size and construction from other ‘harps but offers many helpful ideas. The file can be enlarged to full size at a retail copy center.
  • The Autoharp Owner’s Manual includes excellent plans and instructions for building  “The Mountain Laurel Autoharp”, along with a wealth of maintenance and setup information. The design can support more chord bars, diatonic stringing schedules and aesthetic details. The plans can be photocopied and enlarged to full size at a retail copy center. 

Materials

  • Hardware stores stock the more common items such as screws, brass rod, glue, and finishing supplies. 
  • Specialized hardware such as zither and bridge pins can be purchased from online vendors or a piano supply company.
  • Chord bar felt, OS parts, fine tuner assemblies, pickups, pins, springs, etc., can be purchased from many autoharp luthiers and Elderly Instruments.
  • Standard and custom string sets are made by Greg Schreiber.

Wood

  • Wood can be sourced from lumber yards, sawmills, local woodworkers, and online. If you cannot plane and sand solid woods for the thinner back and soundboard, consider the 1/4” marine and cabinet grade plywood sold in big box stores such as Lowe’s. They also stock 1/4” x 6” solid poplar that can be joined to produce a better soundboard than plywood. With some patience and careful sorting, you can often find attractive quarter sawn stock.

The best framing material for tuning and overall stability is the multi-laminated maple pin block manufactured for pianos. It grips tuning pins without cracking and remains stable in changing environmental conditions. It is particularly effective when cut as a single unit for the angled treble side, as it eliminates a troublesome joint that wants to creep. I like to cut the entire frame from a single blank so that there are no joints to fail. Pin block can be obtained from a piano technician or piano supply but the planks are fifty-nine inches long, so it’s unlikely that they would sell only enough for one ‘harp. Contact me to purchase a more economical size.

In closing

When you create your own special box with strings, not only do you increase your knowledge and skills of everything autoharp, but also you get a warm fuzzy rush every time someone asks, “Who made your autoharp?”

Links

Plans

The Guild Of American Luthiers:  http://www.luth.org

Musicmakers :  https://www.harpkit.com

The Autoharp Owner’s Manual  compiled and edited by Mary Lou Orthey is available from Daigle Autoharps:  http://www.daigleharp.com

Materials

Schaff Piano Supply (wholesale)  https://www.schaffpiano.com

Vanda King (retail piano supply):  https://www.vandaking.com

Elderly Instruments:  https://www.elderly.com

Greg Schreiber:  http://schreiberautoharps.com

Michael Bowman: https://fretorfretnot.com